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ABEL.. El, .naarnarnon srurmetfnnrvmplvnw YORK.`

`Specicationl-formingpart Vof Letters BatentfNo. 1075650, datedSeptember 27, 1870.

Toalt' 'whom itA may concern: l

vBe ist knownhtha-t 1, ABEL H. BARTLETT, of Sipuyten Duyvil,.in`thecountyof:Westchester and State ot NewYork, jhavewinlvented newf1 andluseiulvImprovementsfftn Remmers ,L and I l do hereby declare that thefollow-ingiis; a fulfl,

clear,y and exact description thereof, which? will enable others skilledin the art to make .and use thesame,reference beinghad to the`accompanying drawings, formin of this' specification.

This invention relates to improvements `in' that class of hemrnersfor.sewing-machines which are designed for markinghems of differ-1 entwidths, and which are attached to the presser-foot. My invention relatesto hem'mers for sewingmachin'es; and it consists in certain improvementsthereon, which will be first fully described in connection with all thatis necessary to their clear understanding, and then specified in theclaims.

Figure 1 represents a front elevation of my improved hem mer. Fig. 2 isa plan view ofthe same. Fig. 3 is a transverse section on the line :c xof Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a transverse section on the line y y of Fig. 2.Fig. 5 is a section on the line z z of Fig. 4, looking in the directionof the arrows shown in Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a front elevation ofthe samewhen arranged lfor the cloth-supporting plates to be used instead of thecord. Fig. 7 is a. front elevation of one of the plates used to supportthe cloth in the space between the two parts of the former when thelatter is separated; and Figs. 8 and 9 are views of two ot' said plates,the same being inverted. i

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

A represents a hem-folding and guide plate for aiding in folding theedge of the cloth and guiding it after it has been folded and turnedunder to the needle. Itis made semicircular, or nearly so, at thereceiving end B, and ter` minates next to the needle in an angular form,as shown at C. This grooved guiding-plate is connected to or made a partof a plane plate, D, by which it is to be attached to the plate E, whichis a prolongation of the presser-foot F. The connection with this plateE is made by a clamping-screw, Gr, and a stud, H, which enter slots inthe end of plate E, to be secured by the clamping-nut, so that theattachment l oraremolval may be effected wit-hout takin gtheclam-pin.glinutL out of plate D.

21. `The front end B1 ofthe guide A is provided with aiblock or plate,I, which, together with the block or plateK, I call the folder,77 over'Swhfioli threxclothfis-.to beturned to form the foldl of' the hem, thewidthofwhich `is to be fgoyerned' yby theseA plates. The plate K is.nfiounftedE on a-x long .arm,L,forlnedl from one i edge ofia; plate, M,bent' perpendicular to the saidplate, so that when the latter is clampedbetween thevrguildefA and the plate Eby the -clampingescrew Gr: passingthrough aslot, N, in it theA said arm will rest onv the platey of themachine in front of the end B of the guide A and perpendicular to it.The said arm L is separated from the plate M by a space, O, twothirds,or thereabout, the length of the plate M. Beyond the end of the arm L towhich the plate or block K is attached the plate M is bent around theconvex side of plate K, as shown at P, to form the cloth-guide for theouter edge ot' the fold and for turning the cloth in making the firstfold. .These two plates or blocks I K form a divided and extensionfolder, which, when brought close together by adjusting the plate Mvalong the. plate D and clamping-screw Gr to the required position, formthe interior wall of a scroll-groove, Q, in which the cloth is turned toform the hem. The outer wall of the groove is formed by the bent endP ofthe plate M, a part of the top of the latter, and the guide A. These twoparts I K are designed to he, when reduced to practical form, of theproper size to form the narrowest hem to be made when placed closetogether, and by separating them more or less Widely apart it isdesigned to make hems of any required width. When making wide heins itis necessary to support the cloth belevel with the same. This may bedonein various ways. For instance, a cord, B, of any kind may beattached to the top of plate K, extended to the top of I, passed throughit in a hole so arranged that the cord will pass out at the bottom onthe opposite side, and thence along the arm L to a spring, S, beyond,for holding it' taut, the arrangement being such that in adjusting theplates M and K along one way or the other the cord will run through theplate I freely.

Instead of the spring S, the cord may be ati tween the tops of the twoparts of the folder,-

tached to any other support., and the slack which occurs bythestretching of the cord may be taken up from time to time; or, insteadof the cord for supporting the cloth, plates T, made in differentlengths for hems of different widths, may be used, the said plates beingprovided with long arms U, with langes V to it in the channels in thearms L, formed by turning up one edge, as shown at W, so that the platesT may slide into or out of position between the plates I K; ortheseplates'lmaybe made without the arms U, and hinged or otherwise attachedto the arms L, so as to lie down on a projecting and supporting flangearranged above the table of the machine when not required for use, andbe raised up for use and supported in any approved Way. They may be madein short sections for the hems of ditferent widths when arranged in thislastinentioned way, and one or more sections may be raised up for use,as required. The plates 'lwhether made to slide in and out or hinged tobe raised up for use, as described, may be arranged in speciticlengthsand have the same marked on them in igures, so that the required platefor a specitied Width of hem may ne readilyVV selected, and the plates IK may be readily and accurately adjusted by it.

The object of the stud H in the plate D is to act inV conjunction withtheclamp-screw G to prevent the said plate D and the plateMfrom beingturned on the screw; and the object of shaping the folding and guidingplate A so as to terminate in the angular form shown is to provide a Hatlevel surface on which the fold, after it has been completed, may slidealong toward the needle, close up to the vertical part of plate A, whichhere assumesthe character of a guide, against which it is desired thatthe fold shall move, so that the said vertical part shall. govern thedistance of the line of stitchingjfrom the edge.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent- 1. The combination of plates I K with the cord R, forthe purpose specied.

2. The combination of cord R with tensionspring S, When-relativelyarranged in connection with a hemmer, as and for the purpose specified.

lhc above specication ot' my invention signed by me this 17th day ot'May, 1870.

' ABEL H. BARTLET'I.

Witnesses:

GEO. W. Manara, T. B. MosHER.

